Diatom algae in aquariums are one of the most common and often misunderstood issues faced by aquarists. If you’ve ever noticed a brown, dusty coating over your tank walls, plants, or decorations, you’ve probably encountered diatom algae. While they’re not harmful to your fish or plants, they can make your beautiful aquarium look dull and unclean.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll dive deep into understanding what diatom algae are, what causes them, how to prevent them, and how to get rid of them effectively without upsetting your tank’s ecosystem.
What Is Diatom Algae?
Diatoms are a type of algae known as Bacillariophyta, microscopic organisms with unique silica (SiO₂) shells. They are single-celled and photosynthetic, meaning they use light to produce food. The brownish film they form in aquariums is often referred to as brown algae, though it’s technically diatoms.
In aquariums, diatom algae appear as:
- A brown or rust-colored layer on glass, substrate, rocks, and plants.
- A dusty or slimy texture that can be wiped away easily.
- Commonly found in new tanks or tanks with poor lighting or water quality.
Why Diatom Algae Appear in Aquariums

Diatoms thrive under specific conditions. Identifying the cause is the key to managing them. Here are the primary reasons:
1. High Silicate Levels
Diatoms need silica to build their shells. This element often enters the tank through:
- Tap water (especially from municipal sources)
- Silicate-based substrates or decorations
- Poor-quality salt mixes (in marine aquariums)
If your aquarium has excess silicates, diatom algae will find it easy to multiply.
2. Newly Established Aquariums
In new tanks (less than 3 months old), diatom blooms are almost inevitable. During the initial cycling process:
- Beneficial bacteria haven’t fully developed.
- Nutrient imbalances occur.
- Light and oxygen levels fluctuate.
This unstable environment provides the perfect breeding ground for diatoms.
3. Excess Nutrients (Phosphates and Nitrates)
Diatoms feed on phosphates (PO₄³⁻) and nitrates (NO₃⁻). Overfeeding fish, infrequent water changes, or decaying plant matter can lead to nutrient spikes that fuel algae growth.
4. Low Light or Poor Lighting Spectrum
Diatoms prefer low light environments. Tanks with weak or old bulbs, or those that don’t emit the proper light spectrum, are more susceptible.
5. Poor Water Flow
Stagnant areas in the aquarium—behind decorations or corners—can trap nutrients and debris, encouraging diatom growth.
How to Identify Diatom Algae
Recognizing diatoms is fairly easy with visual and behavioral clues:
- Color: Brown, rusty, or golden film.
- Texture: Powdery or slimy; easy to wipe away.
- Location: Appears on glass, substrate, ornaments, filter intake, and even live plants.
- Timing: Most common in tanks that are newly set up or recently cleaned.
You can confirm it’s diatom algae (and not other types like green algae) by simply wiping a patch from the glass — diatoms come off easily, leaving a clean spot behind.
Is Diatom Algae Harmful?
In most cases, no, diatom algae are not harmful. They are considered benign and self-limiting. However, prolonged infestations can:
- Make your aquarium unsightly.
- Block light from reaching plants.
- Smother live plant leaves.
- Reduce oxygen levels at night.
For reef or planted tanks, where balance and appearance matter, addressing diatom blooms is important.
How to Get Rid of Diatom Algae in Aquariums

Eliminating diatom algae involves targeting their root causes rather than just cleaning the surface. Here’s how you can effectively remove and prevent them:
1. Manual Cleaning
Start with the basics:
- Use an algae scraper or magnetic cleaner for glass.
- Siphon the substrate during water changes to remove detritus.
- Clean decorations, rocks, and plants gently.
Manual cleaning removes visible algae but doesn’t solve the underlying cause. It’s a necessary first step, though.
2. Improve Water Quality
Regular maintenance is your strongest weapon:
- Perform weekly partial water changes (20–30%) using RO (Reverse Osmosis) or DI (Deionized) water to minimize silicates.
- Avoid overfeeding your fish.
- Test for and control phosphate and nitrate levels using water testing kits.
Keeping your water parameters stable and clean reduces the nutrients diatoms depend on.
3. Use RO/DI Water
Tap water often contains silicates and phosphates. Using RO/DI water for your tank significantly cuts down these contaminants. This is especially vital for:
- Reef tanks
- High-tech planted aquariums
- Sensitive species setups
You can also use a silicate remover resin in your filter if switching to RO/DI water isn’t possible.
4. Increase Lighting Intensity
Diatoms thrive under low light, so providing brighter and balanced lighting helps. Use LED lights or full-spectrum aquarium lighting that promotes plant or coral growth.
Avoid keeping lights on for more than 8–10 hours daily, as excessive light encourages other algae types.
5. Boost Water Flow
Enhancing circulation prevents debris accumulation and keeps nutrients evenly distributed. Add:
- Wave makers
- Powerheads
- Upgraded filters
A strong current discourages diatom buildup on surfaces and oxygenates the water.
6. Introduce Algae-Eating Species
Certain aquatic animals feed on diatoms naturally, making them excellent cleanup helpers. Examples include:
Freshwater Aquariums
- Otocinclus catfish
- Amano shrimp
- Bristlenose plecos
- Nerite snails
Saltwater Aquariums
- Trochus snails
- Cerith snails
- Nassarius snails
- Hermit crabs
Adding these algae-eaters helps maintain balance and keeps diatoms from returning.
7. Maintain Proper Filtration
A strong, efficient filter is key to controlling organic buildup. Make sure:
- The filter is adequately sized for your tank.
- Filter media (like sponges and activated carbon) are cleaned regularly.
- Optional: Add phosphate-absorbing media to reduce nutrient levels.
8. Patience (Natural Die-Off)
In new tanks, diatom blooms typically fade on their own as the aquarium matures. Once:
- Beneficial bacteria colonies stabilize.
- Silicate levels drop.
- Lighting improves.
This natural die-off can take 2–6 weeks. Avoid drastic chemical treatments—time and balance usually solve the problem.
Preventing Diatom Algae from Returning

Prevention is always easier than dealing with an outbreak. Follow these long-term practices:
- Use RO/DI water for all water changes and top-offs.
- Feed moderately and remove uneaten food promptly.
- Perform routine maintenance every week.
- Replace old bulbs or upgrade lighting if dim.
- Avoid silicate-based decorations or substrates.
- Test your water regularly for phosphate, nitrate, and silicate levels.
- Maintain a balanced bio-load—don’t overstock your aquarium.
By keeping your tank balanced and clean, diatom algae will find it difficult to re-establish.
Diatom Algae vs Other Algae Types
It’s important not to confuse diatom algae with other forms like green spot or blue-green algae. Here’s how they differ:
Algae Type | Appearance | Common Cause | Removal Difficulty |
---|---|---|---|
Diatom (Brown) | Brown dust-like layer | Silicates, low light, new tank | Easy |
Green Algae | Green film or hair | Excess light, nutrients | Moderate |
Blue-Green (Cyanobacteria) | Slimy, blue-green sheet | Poor circulation, excess nutrients | Hard |
Black Beard Algae | Black tufts | CO₂ imbalance | Hard |
Green Spot Algae | Hard green dots | Old lighting, phosphate imbalance | Moderate |
Understanding what you’re dealing with helps choose the right solution.
Do Diatom Algae Benefit Aquariums?
Interestingly, diatoms aren’t entirely bad. In moderation, they can:
- Provide food for snails and shrimp.
- Indicate early tank cycling progress.
- Help stabilize ecosystems by consuming nitrates.
However, when they overgrow, their downsides outweigh the benefits.
Natural Ways to Control Diatom Algae
If you prefer to avoid chemicals, these natural solutions are effective:
- Increase live plants – Plants compete with diatoms for nutrients.
- Maintain consistent CO₂ levels (for planted tanks).
- Add natural cleaners like snails and shrimp.
- Regular water changes using filtered water.
- Optimize lighting and circulation.
Nature-based control methods maintain your aquarium’s ecosystem safely.
When to Seek Professional Help
If diatom algae persist even after proper maintenance, it might indicate deeper issues such as:
- Contaminated water source.
- Failing filtration system.
- Incorrect lighting setup.
In such cases, consulting an aquarium expert or testing laboratory can identify the specific problem and guide corrective actions.
Final Thoughts
Diatom algae are an unavoidable but manageable part of aquarium keeping. While they can be unsightly, they usually indicate that your tank is still stabilizing or has excess silicates and nutrients. With proper care—good filtration, balanced feeding, regular maintenance, and patience—your aquarium will return to its sparkling, healthy state.
Remember, a diatom bloom is not a failure—it’s a natural part of your tank’s ecosystem learning to balance itself.
FAQs About Diatom Algae in Aquariums
1. How long do diatom algae last in a new aquarium?
Typically, diatoms disappear within 2–6 weeks once your tank stabilizes and beneficial bacteria establish themselves.
2. Can diatom algae harm fish or plants?
No, diatoms are harmless to fish and plants. They’re more of an aesthetic nuisance than a threat.
3. What eats diatom algae?
Snails (like Nerite or Trochus), shrimp (Amano), and small algae-eating fish (Otocinclus, Bristlenose Pleco) love feeding on diatoms.
4. Will diatoms go away on their own?
Yes, in most cases, diatoms naturally disappear as the tank matures and silicate levels drop.
5. Can light cause diatom blooms?
Diatoms prefer low-light conditions, so inadequate or old lighting often contributes to their growth.
6. Is using chemical algae remover safe?
Chemical treatments can harm beneficial bacteria and fish. It’s better to focus on natural prevention and water quality control.
7. Why do diatoms keep coming back after cleaning?
If your water source or substrate continues to introduce silicates or phosphates, diatoms may return. Switching to RO/DI water often solves this.
8. Do diatoms indicate poor tank health?
Not necessarily. They’re common in new tanks and usually signify the cycling process is ongoing.
9. What’s the best way to permanently stop diatoms?
Use RO/DI water, maintain strong filtration, limit feeding, and ensure good lighting and water flow.
10. Are diatoms the same as brown algae?
Yes, “brown algae” in aquariums are almost always diatoms — not true algae.